![]() If the faulty wire runs through a loom, it is easier to disconnect it at both ends and run the new wire alongside the loom, securing it with tape. Look in a workshop manual or ask your dealer if you are not sure what size of wire you.need. To eliminate any chance of overheating, the replacement wire should be of the correct thickness. Remember when replacing the generator wires that the connecting terminals need to be soldered on to ensure a good connection. If any of the leads are corroded you should replace them.Ĭheck the wiring connections to the back of the generator, then work your way along the wires to the regulator box or The generator earths via the engine and a poor connection here will affect its performance. Then check the battery terminals, making sure they are clean.Ĭarefully check the battery earth lead where it joins the bodywork and also the main earth strap from the engine to the bodywork. If the warning light glows above idling speed, you should check the charging circuit wiring for any poor connections that are causing a high resistance. Pull each wire from the voltage regulator in turn, or disconnect the wires to the solenoid, and clean up the terminals using wet-or-dry paper. Of oil and dirt then refit the mounting bolts, making sure they are tight. Their exposed position in the engine bay they can become oily and provide onlyĬheck this connection by removing the mounting bolts. These provideĪn earth passage from the generator to the engine and body, but because of Remember also to check the generator to engine mounting bolts. Don't forget to check whether theīattery lead connections and engine earthing strap are still good. Disconnect the wiresĪnd clean up the terminals if they are dirty. Or dirty wiring connections causing the high resistance. If high resistance is the problem, the warning lightĬarefully work your way through the entire charging system looking for loose Test this by switching on more and more electrical accessories once the I am going crazy waiting for it to arrive After many years of Fords and Mercurys, here's my first Chev. If the warning light simply glows dimly it usually indicates the problem is New guy - 8/71 Blown 68 Pro Streeter 49253 Views 90 Replies 25 Participants Last post by VinceS427bb, B BlownYenko Discussion Starter I've recently purchased this 68, and it's being shipped at the moment. Normal when you rev the engine slightly but comes on again as the engine speed The third possible problem with a warning light is that it goes out as In this case you should disconnect the wire from this Some cars, however, have an alternator which uses a separate Again the terminal will be marked WL or IND. The alternator has an external regulator, the warning light wire attaches to it ![]() If the alternator is fitted with an internal regulator, the wire you wantĬonnects directly to a terminal on the back of the unit marked WL or IND. ![]() Whether the alternator is fitted with an internal or an external voltage the vacuum valve should only allow air to be blown from the carburetor float bowl towards the canister when no vacuum is applied (engine is not running). If your car has an alternator, the warning light wire connection depends on when im driving there is a HUGE amount of pressure build up in the tank, - Answered by a verified Classic Car Mechanic. Marked either WL or IND - this is the wire you The 69 El Camino (often referred to as 68 El Camino) features a blown engine just behind the cab and spoiler at the back. , often mounted on the bulkhead or inner wing. But first you need to knowĮxactly which type of charging system you have so that you can identify theĬars fitted with a dynamo have the warning light wire connected to a remote Guessing a wire going to the TS switch.To make this check you will need to find the warning light wire in theĮngine bay where it connects to the charging system. ![]() I suspect something in the steering column, as the turn signals and or back up lights don't even have to be on to blow the fuse. And yes, it blows even with the fuel pump unplugged. Obviously, I only want power to it when the car is turned on.Īnyone dealt with a similar issue? Thought I would ask before I start taking stuff apart looking for a short. I already have an inline fuse on it, so it doesn't even need to be fused. I plan to run the fuel pump to another spot, just in case this happens again. I was able to jamb the spade connector into the other side of the fuse and drove it home without turn signals. I had my electric fuel pump hooked up to that terminal and it quit on me going down the highway. Also powers that "ign" terminal to the left of the fuse. Powers Directional Signals and back up lights. Now, it appears something is worn clear through, and staying grounded. I suspect something touched ground on a bump back then. ![]() I coasted in to a truck stop bought fuses, replaced it and it hasn't blown again until this week. As soon as I hit the key, it pops, so dead short to ground somewhere. 20 amp fuse (right side, second from the bottom) blows as soon as I turn on the key. ![]()
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